Рыбалка на шведских озерах
Приближался отпуск — долгожданный и очень необходимый после длительного периода напряжённой работы. Впереди — период с середины августа до середины сентября. По финансовым соображениям и из-за того, что наши с женой отпуска не совпадали, поездка к тёплому морю не светила. А какой отдых лучше всего подходит для горожанина, занятого бизнесом и проводящего большее в офисе? В лес! На озеро, речку! Туда, где не тесно от людей, где самые громкие звуки — это шум листьев и волн от ветра. А твоими соседями на предстоящую неделю становятся птицы, звери и рыбы.
Так сложилось, что к моменту начала отпуска для меня сформировалось три предложения по поездке на рыбалку: Астрахань, Карелия и Швеция. Выбор пал на страну викингов в силу того, что поездка сулило что-то новое и по природе, и по рыбалке непосредственно. Раньше приходилось неоднократно бывать и на раскатах в Астраханской области с их изобилием в рыбалке и в охоте, и в Карелии, в тех диких местах, куда можно добраться только на лодке и где в озёрах очень даже можно поймать и трофейного щукаря под «десяточку», и кумжу, а также вполне приличных размеров (грамм по 300–400) окуней и язей. Бюджет примерно сопоставим, поэтому решено: Швеция!
Места мне выбирать не приходилось — спасибо моим друзьям, которые там уже побывали. Правда, это было зимой, но тем не менее представление о местечке Сторуман уже имелось: что за условия и какая рыбалка нас ожидают на расположенных рядом озерах и речках. Наша компания — это пятеро ребят. Саше, Диме, мне и Антону — от 40 до 50 лет. А Николай Иванович (Иваныч) — он постарше, ему чуть больше 60-ти. Правда, несмотря на возраст, он ещё и нам фору сможет дать: энергия и жажда активной жизни видны в его глазах без бинокля. Все мы считаем себя в рыбалке не новичками, не один год подвержены этой привычке, и не раз случалось так, что оказывались на рыбалке в одной компании. Экипировка у всех имеется, так что сборы в основном касались в до закупке кое-каких снастей.
Выезд из Питера — днём в среду, к вечеру на границе. Очередей нет, прохождение пограничных формальностей занимает 15 минут, плюс DutyFree, к которому каждый также заранее подготовился. И вот мы в Финляндии. А дальше — дорога. Расстояние в 1300 км до города Сторуман при двух водителях в каждом из наших двух автомобилей преодолевается достаточно легко с остановками только на АЗС. Ровность покрытия финских и шведских дорог позволяет вполне сносно подремать отдыхающему водителю на заднем сиденье.
Не доезжая примерно 100 км до места, остановились, чтобы размяться-освежиться, и попутно минут за 15 набрали ведро с горкой грибов, причём только белых и подосиновиков. Мы их не искали, мы их просто собирали. Видимо, шведы, как и большинство европейцев, предпочитают лесным грибам искусственные шампиньоны…
Прибываем к месту назначения около полудня. Наспех разгрузившись и перекусив, несмотря на усталость с дороги, Саша, Антон и я быстро собрались и отправились на озеро Стенселет, на берегу которого расположен город Сторуман. Дорога заняла 5 минут. С севера город ещё граничит и с одноименным озером, если бы поехали туда, то это заняло бы 10 минут.
Швеция — как наша родная Карелия: край озер и лесов, и каждый даже самый маленький населенный пункт расположен на берегу озера или реки, которых здесь в изобилии. Вот и город Сторуман со своими одноэтажными домиками, узкими, извилистыми, но ровными дорожками раскинулся по берегам двух озёр.
Рыбацкий дебют на озере Стенселет было решено сделать на лодочке типа нашей «Пеллы» с моторчиком в 4 л.с., которую нам предоставил в пользование Юра — наш гид и хозяин домика. В этом доме нам предстояло жить шесть дней. Юра — гражданин России, житель Ленинградской области, так что о языковом барьере даже речи не велось. Помимо того, что он предоставил нам кров и плавсредства, он подробно рассказал и показал, где, когда и на что, а также кого надо ловить. И ещё отмечено нами было, что на берегу стояли две лодки. Одна из них была Юрина. В уключины обоих лодок были вставлены вёсла! Обе лодки были привязаны к тонким деревцам, растущим на берегу, простыми верёвочками! Не цепочками, не тросами с замками, а просто верёвочками, чтобы ветром лодку не унесло в озеро. Вот с этим багажом знаний и со спиннингами, находясь в прекрасном расположении духа, мы и отчалили. День выдался хоть и не безоблачный, но без дождя, слабый ветерок метра 3–4 в секунду, и около 13 градусов тепла. И это в центральной Швеции в середине сентября! С погодой нам вообще вышел фарт: за всю неделю ни одного дождичка, и днём разогревало до +18! Красота! Правда, нюанс: ночью доходило до -3, поэтому для утренней рыбалки приходилось одеваться «по-взрослому». Природа в Швеции нас, питерцев, удивила мало, так как она очень схожа с той, которая в нашем родном Приладожье. Те же деревья, сосновые боры с высокими мхами среди ледниковых валунов, озёра и речки. Вот только следов пребывания человека весьма мало, грибов и ягод — море, а в озёрах и речках вода практически абсолютно прозрачная, так что дно просматривается на глубину до 4-х метров. Черпай кружкой и пей без кипячения!
Итак, процесс непосредственно рыбалки начался. Не проплыв и 20-ти метров, сделали первые забросы наших блёсен. Представьте себе наше воодушевление, когда на третьем по счёту Антон, немного потрудившись, вылавливает кумжу весом около 500 гр.! Процесс выуживания кумжи отнюдь не монотонен — эта сильная и неуступчивая рыба заставляет поработать. Но зато при удачном исходе получаешь удовольствие как от самой борьбы, так и от победы. Поэтому для нас неудивительны были проявления радости и чуть-чуть даже гордости, которые выражал Антон всем своим видом и восторженными возгласами после того, как пойманная форелька оказалась в лодке.
Через несколько минут удача в виде пойманной кумжи улыбается Саше, потом и мне. Приходит понимание, что если так и дальше дело пойдёт, то не зря прокатились сюда больше тысячи километров. Однако мечтам нашим сиюминутным не суждено было сбыться — клёв потихонечку сошёл на нет, и мы решили побросать блёсенки в других точках озера, переходя от одной к другой с троллингом. Нас трое, три спиннинга, три разных вида приманки: воблер, «колебалка» и «вертушка». Монотонный стрекот мотора, едва слышный плеск воды от форштевня лодки, слабое покачивание на небольшой волне — все условия, чтобы начать зевать, а то и дремать…
Сначала Саша сказал, что у него зацеп, после чего выключил двигатель. Мы, естественно, тоже стали сматывать свои лески, чтобы они не перепутались друг с дружкой. И моя, и Антона головы инстинктивно повернулись к Саше, когда мы услышали характерный звук работы фрикциона катушки его спиннинга. Через секунду мы услышали от него не просьбу, а требование приготовить багор и начинать снимать видео (благо у каждого смартфон в кармане); в этом голосе слышалось нескрываемое волнение…
ОНА, конечно, сопротивлялась, и все движения её были солидными. Видно было, что Саша реально работает мускулами, что он напряжён и сосредоточен. Через некоторое количество времени (может, это была минута, а может, и пять), показавшись верхним плавником и спиной из воды, ОНА дала нам понять, что багор приготовлен не зря и видео снимается не рядовое, а историческое. Ещё несколько заплывов вдоль лодки, под неё и от неё, всё ближе и ближе к борту, последние метры…
Антон наносит прицельный, выверенный удар багром с зацепом под жабры и этим же движением вбрасывает ЕЁ в лодку. Сердечки наши поколачивались почаще в эти секунды, но ведь, черт возьми, именно ради таких мгновений и ходят мужики на рыбалку и охоту — ради этих непередаваемых ощущений победы. Позже взвешивание показало, что в этой щуке было 12 кг, пусть в лодке наши мнения на этот счёт и разделились. Да разве это важно?
Дрёму как рукой сняло. Разумеется, решили продолжить ловить, хотя ещё 15 минут назад мысли склонялись к тому, что на сегодня хватит. Подошли к протоке возле моста, где, постояв на якоре немного и сделав по десятку забросов, пополнили свой улов хариусом примерно на 400 гр. и таких же размеров сижком. Ого, а жизнь-то налаживается! Но… Наступает затишье в рыбалке: то ли аппетит у рыбы пропал, то ли по каким другим причинам. Совсем заснуть нам не позволяют окуньки-«матросики» каждый весом грамм по 300. Таких ловить тоже очень даже приятно — бойцы. Вытаскиваешь таких, встречая отчаянное сопротивление, да и вкусные они к тому же.
Ещё немного покружив по озеру и не поймав больше ничего трофейного, принимаем решение двигаться к дому. Желание выспаться и как следует подготовиться к завтрашней рыбалке пересилило все остальные. В доме нас ждал ужин, приготовленный Димой и Иванычем, и постели с чистым бельём.
А о том, что было в следующие дни нашего пребывания в Швеции, уже чуть-чуть другая история.
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